The perfect shot

WEEK 6

Irena, my wife, is a coffeegeek with Italian sensibility. In the division of labor that defines our household, she owns coffee. I’m the beneficiary of a daily cappuccino. Maybe an afternoon espresso with beautiful crema. Hers is an extensive operation with industrial machinery, beans sourced from Italy and daily practice. There is no incentive for me to learn the trade.

But this week as part of my 52 new things project, I want to pull my first shot of espresso.

We set up in front of the very sexy Rocket Milano. Espresso cups out. Saucers on the counter. Biscotti ready.

I slide the portafilter into the E61 group head and do the first cooling shot. In New York City, we have a double boiler, and I’m told this step is needed to warm the group head. I lift the lever and count 20 seconds as hot water flows into the cups.

Rest assured, I am supervised at every step.

Next, I release the portafilter, shake off the excess water and move to the grinder, a Mahlkonig. The first rule of good coffee is the grinder. Espresso must be made with just-ground beans. As Irena explains the grinder, I know I’ve got it easy. She has already dialed in the perfect grind and, as I learn, it’s an electronic dosing grinder, so I cannot screw this up.

I do a first tamp to get all the grounds into the portafilter, and then evenly (key word) apply 30 pounds of pressure for the tamp.

I slide the portafilter back into the group head and position the espresso cups underneath. Next is pre-infusion—raising the lever to a 45-degree angle for about five seconds—to moisten the grounds. Then I pull the lever completely vertical to force the water through the grounds at the magical “nine bars of pressure” to brew espresso.

At this point it gets very exciting. The shot is coming out perfectly. My guide and mentor says this is called “rat-tails” (Really? No one could have improved on this?) as the inky black espresso slowly fills the cups then turns a golden brown as crema is forming. As the coffee turns a light blonde, I release the lever.

We sip and enjoy. Not bad for the first time!